This trip is a bit of a litmus test, if it is as stressful as my S. England trip, it is time to think about downsizing the van.
Sunday 8th - Stopped at great Italian deli in Morpeth for lunch, then overnight at Dunbar which was probably nice but shrouded in mist. A return visit is needed to do their art trail but I did see the Dunbear (by Andy Scott, the same sculptor who designed the Kelpies).
Monday 9th - In the morning it had cleared enough to see Bass Rock from my pitch. But I headed off to Rosslyn Chapel (of The Da Vinci Code fame) just south of Edinburgh. Interesting building, but no photos allowed inside. The guide gave a good talk, and the place was pretty full with coach tourists.
Over the Forth road bridge, trying not to gawp too much at the fab rail bridge to my right, on to the East Wemyss caves. I'd found these on an app called Atlas Obscura. Right on the coast, it was a nice spot for a lunch break but I didn't really see the pictish carvings as the caves were gated. (Several days later I read you can get the gate key from the local shop! Well that's handy to know....) I did see Sandwich terns though. Then on to Anstruther, and a couple of nights at Bankside Farm CL.
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| Anstruther |
Tuesday 10 - After a wild and windy night, I awoke to brilliant blue skies. Caught the bus to St Andrews and had a terrific day. Such a pretty, tree-lines town. First stop the museum, then walked down to the castle on the coast.
Over to Wardlaw museum in the University grounds - what a view from the top!
Lunch of Cullen skink in The Bothy, (nice, with a slurp of rose too, well I am on holiday) and down to the harbour for an ice cream (same excuse). Quick nosy at the cathedral then I took the bus halfway back.
I got off the bus at the lovely village of Crail and walked the last few miles back to the campsite on the coastal path - redshank, cormorants, heron, oystercatchers and a really good look at a vole! Beautiful coastal views and more caves.
Wednesday 11th
On to Banchory, via lunch at the Aberlemno stones (standing pictish carvings) and the St Cyrus nature reserve.
It was warm and sunny at the reserve and I could hear the seeds popping from the gorse and broom. I met an interesting man at the abandoned cemetery who helped me identify the martins and fulmars overhead. He told me the story of
George Beattie the poet, and victim of either murder or suicide, quite a sad story for such a beautiful day.
Thursday 12th
Walked from the Banchory site along the Dee, to the Milton of Crathes Arts Centre. A lovely river where I saw an enormous salmon. There were various art displays at the arts centre, and I had a lovely bacon butty and coffee.
Over the road was
Crathes castle, with beautiful gardens and fabulous painted ceilings in most of the upper rooms. The one to the right is the muses ceiling.
Bus back to campsite via Tesco. A long day, 18k steps!
Friday 13th
Aberdeen - the inspiration for the whole trip, but sadly we didn't get on. It was a cold day and the city wasn't at its best - even the Art Gallery seemed unfriendly and patronising. I walked up to the old town, and St Machar's cathedral via the botanical gardens.
I probably should give it another try one day. I didn't explore it properly but did see enormous ships right in the centre of the city.
Saturday 14th
From Banchory along the tourist trail through Ballater and Braemar. Lots of walks around here, you could spend a week in either one. Then it was over the Snow Road! (The A939 more prosaically).
After a slightly narrow start, the road opened out and there were fine views all the way to Tomintoul. It is one of the highest roads in the country, and the satnav didn't want to take me up it, but I found the van handled the long hills really well.
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| The Watchers |
There were sculptures along the route, and a good cafe for tea and flapjacks. Tomintoul Bowling Club was putting me up for the night on an honesty box principle, with four other vans parked there too. The eating places were all a bit 'hotel-y' so I stocked up at The Village Shop.
The end of week one - and what a brilliant time I am having, I could get used to this!
Monday 9th - In the morning it had cleared enough to see Bass Rock from my pitch. But I headed off to Rosslyn Chapel (of The Da Vinci Code fame) just south of Edinburgh. Interesting building, but no photos allowed inside. The guide gave a good talk, and the place was pretty full with coach tourists.
