Isle of Mull - week 2

Monday 8th September

Hopped on the bus to Tobermory and joined Nature Scotland for a minibus trip wildlife spotting. There were seven of us on the bus, with leader Jack. He really knew his stuff, and within the hour we were looking at two white-tailed eagles. Then we were lucky enough to see a female otter with her pups. 

Watching the otters

Golden eagle

The roads were small and high, so again I was glad I wasn't driving! Some beautiful views. And we saw a golden eagle right overhead, very close. Towards the end of the trip we saw another golden eagle. 

We also saw an Irish hare, which was a gorgeous deep copper colour, hooded crows, linnet, fallow and roe deer, yellowhammer, pink footed goose.

The rain came in just as we were driving back to base, and we'd had a fabulous day.

Tuesday 9th

Left the island back to mainland Oban, and filled up with fuel and food. Then I took the back road route through logging territory, down the Kintyre peninsula to Tarbert. I did stop briefly at the Kilmartin museum but they wanted £16!! Too much for a quick visit. The Tarbert site is built in to the side of the hill, and mainly lodges. The cafe wasn't open but had great facilities otherwise. I was hoping for a quiet rest, as I was shattered, but it was like a flippin' racetrack! Vans, lorries and cars zooming up and down past me until 8pm. 

Wednesday 10th

Well the jackhammers started at 7.49. What the chuff? So I very grumpily threw my cable in the van and headed down to Tarbert for my next ferry hop. Excellent cooked breakfast at the Cafe Ca'Dora - beans and haggis on toast. I peered up at the castle briefly but it was cold and rainy so didn't clamber up - Robert the Bruce had stayed there (they think). 

I disembarked from the ferry at Portavadie, and drove through the lovely Kyles of Bute to Dunoon. 

Dunoon is a seaside resort on the Cowal peninsular, overlooking the Firth of Clyde, a bit faded now, but a long and complicated history - visit the Castle House Museum, which has the world's keenest guide, she was lovely. 

Highland Mary (the love of Robert Burns) and Holy Loch submarines are points of interest.

I carried on to Benmore Botanic Gardens, with a fern house and steep hillside planting from Japan, Tibet and Nepal. Also a cafe thank goodness. A red squirrel ran across the road as I left. 

After a tiring day I went off to my final campsite on this trip. It was called Secret Glen, and I approached it with some cynicism I have to say. it was AMAZING! They recommended a pitch near the feeding boxes, and I could park side-on, to watch the red squirrels flitting around for hours. At one point there were 6 of them gambolling about. What a finale to the tour.

Thursday 11th

A lazy day in the van, listening to the rain, doing chores, sewing my cross-stitch, and watching the reds. 

Friday 12th

In to Dunoon for the last ferry - this time a 'turn up and go' run by Western Ferries, a small vessel and a 20 minute hop to Gourlock, near Glasgow. Bought my ticket in the Co-op to save 50%. The Calmac alternative is out of order so there was a hefty queue but they fitted so many on I waited less than an hour. My last view of the holiday was the arse-end of a road truck.

Back in time for tea! 800 miles covered. Celebrated with the traditional pizza and bottle of red. Home is the traveller.

Isle of Mull - week 1

Tuesday 2nd September - Craignure

Off to Mull via Oban, long but scenic drive. Should visit Oban CCC site again as it was well placed for walks. The ferry to Craignure went smoothly, which is just as well as I was first on - eek! The campsite at the other end was right on the shoreline, and I stocked up at the shops and watched the ferries come and go.

Thursday 4th - Calgary

Quick visit to Tobermory before getting the bus to Calgary Bay and back - oh my word it was lovely. Glad I didn't drive and could gawp out of the window all the way. The campsite was high above the town, and a parade of classic cars passed by the entrance (eventually). 

The whisky was SO expensive! So just bought a little sampler, very nice.

Friday 5th - Staffa

I walked down to the harbour and boarded a boat trip to Staffa, and Fingal's cave. The sea was a bit rough going out but I was OK thankfully. Walked to the mouth of the cave - the geology was fascinating. On the return trip we saw seals, and dolphins with young. Also Manx Shearwaters. 

Got absolutely soaked on the walk back up to the campsite. Also found out that all the Islay ferries were booked up - so won't be able to get there on this trip. Never mind, another day perhaps. 

Saturday 6th - Iona

The long, long drive to Fionnphort, mostly single track. Much higher ground than I expected in the centre of the island. Having to pull over every quarter of a mile really extended the travel time. Great views but no-where to stop for photos. 

Had a crab sandwich for lunch at the harbour.  The weather was blowing up, and various ferries were posting yellow warnings, but was able to get on the Iona ferry as a foot passenger. Started with a migraine, so I must be relaxed (grrr). Iona was very peaceful and interesting - John Smith is buried there, it is the place that Scottish kings have been buried for generations. The main attraction is the Abbey, and I got in free with my English Heritage card - result!

The ferry back was busier as many people were leaving to avoid being stranded. Lovely tea and cake with the coach drivers in the cafe when I got back. There was some sort of kerfuffle on the beach, apparently a visit from Greta Thunberg and Climate Justice, although I can't find anything to substantiate this! 

I'd managed to grab the last spot at the Port nan Gael campsite, and joy of joys it had a laundromat! It texted me when my smalls were dry - there's progress. Masses of swallows and martins swooping around. 

Sunday 7th - Craignure again

Before leaving Port nan Gael I managed to blow the electrics with my cheap electric hob. A bang, flames, and everything. Now I know where the fuses are :-) so another learning experience courtesy of the Wildax Facebook group.  Just got away in time, and drove to Duart castle.

Picked up some elderly (and posh) gents who were hitchhiking - but should have been walking with their wives! The castle was mildly interesting, and bumped into the owner on the stairs. It's been the setting for several films.

Pitched up at the same place in Craignure, but had to abandon the planned walk as heavy rain set in. 

Hartsop, Ulleswater

 

En route to my Scottish trip, I met up with ex-workmates Simon and Helen. Lovely location, Sykeside Camping at the back of the Brotherswater Inn, at the bottom end of Ulleswater. Popped in to Glenridding for a bit of shopping and coffee. Then back to camp for a chilled bottle of fizz in real glasses!

The next day Simon and I took a trip up the lake to Pooley Bridge for lunch, and poked around in the bookshop.

Helen joined us that afternoon and we had a slap up pub meal in the evening.

Next day I set off for Oban. 

Shrewsbury Festival

 

Last one of the year, the grandmummy of them all. 9Bach, Malin Lewis and Oysterband were my top three. 

A good CL on the way, at Marton House Farm campsite, right on the entrance road, 15 mins away. 

Used the gas for the fridge (in 25deg heat), and hot water for a shower/hairwash, and still one bar of gas left after 5 nights, so that's reassuring. Filled up and 9 litres went in so I think the gauge is pessimistic. 

Magpies festival

With Paul, Sue, Becky (and girls) and Nicki. Baskery and Julian Taylor were higlights.

 

Boston Belle, Britstop and Birds

A quick one-night trip to Boston with my RSPB group. The first day we met at Gibraltar Point, which meant driving though Skegness - looked like good fun with its pier and arcades, but apparently it gets a bit lairy in the evenings. Lots and lots of static caravans.

I saw a Barn Owl! It flew right over our heads, really close. Also lots of spoonbills and sandpipers. 

I stayed at my first Britstop - the Three Horseshoes pub in Leverton. Parked in the car park so no CDP or water, and loos only when the pub was open. But they were smashing hosts and had an excellent steak there. 

Next day it was all aboard the Boston Belle, for a trip down the river Whitham and up part of the Wellend. Lots of seals, and I saw a kingfisher, plus a peregrine on the Boston Stump.

Locks and duckweed

The Stump

Deershed festival

An energetic day volunteering here, helping people find the river for 'wild swimming' but the music wasn't at all to my taste, apart from Wunderhorse, so I left early. The usual 'up its own bum' vibe. AND I had to pay £100 to camp! So won't be doing this again.

Hereford and Monmouth, via GTSF

A very stressful GTSF this year- nothing worked, the loos, showers, scanners, internet all crashing and making it hard to do a good job stewarding. Wendy and Steve were there, and I'd have preferred to spend time with them. Not sure if I will steward next year.

Then - further South, with the intention of seeing Stereophonics in Cardiff a week later.

Monday

Ludlow market

First stop, Ludlow, a pretty town. Stocked up at independent shops - lamb chops and deli goods. The church had some great quirks - including miserichords.

The countryside around is MUCH hillier than I expected, although in retrospect maybe the phrase 'Shropshire Hills' should have been a clue. Lots of things to see and do that I didn't have time for, or couldn't face in the heat - over 30deg again.

On to a CL, Marsh House Farm, which was lovely. 

World's most highbrow campsite library?

Tuesday

Next day I got the bus in to Hereford from just outside the site. My main aim was to finally see the Mappa Mundi, which had been on my to-do list for years. The whole cathedral was gorgeous, I spent a couple of hours in there - so much to see and wonder at. The Mappa Mundi didn't disappoint, and the Chained library was also impressive. (I managed not to say 'Ook' too loudly). Good lunch and a mooch around in the narrow streets around the cathedral. Then a flippin' nightmare trying to find the bus back - turns out there are TWO bus stations in Hereford....

Wednesday

First stop was a beautiful little church, St Mary's, Kempley. It was down some very narrow lanes, and a bit tricky to find - but wow it was worth it. Fantastic murals inside and a lovely old building. 

https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/st-marys-church-kempley/history/

Less than 10 miles away was my next stop on a VERY hot day - Goodrich Castle. Again, much more than I expected. I have been driving past the little brown sign pointing to it for over 40 years probably. Finally, I stopped there. A good wander round, and looked at the views over the Wye valley, before a quick lunch (ice cream). I will go back when it is cooler I think. https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/goodrich-castle/

My next campsite was in Monmouth, right on the street where Dyfan and Anita live. Had a wonderful couple of evenings catching up and eating good food (a nice change after 6 days cooking in the van!). During the day I took a bus to Chepstow, a town perched steeply on the banks of the Severn. Well worth getting the bus so I could look at the view. I duly visited the museum, looked at the (outside of) the castle, had a pub lunch and peered in to the murky brown river at the bottom of the hill. 

The 5 Alls - fight for all, pray for all, rule for all, plead for all - and finally pay for all!

Oh - and I didn't bother going to see Stereophonics! After such a lovely few days in the peaceful countryside, I couldn't face a city stadium in 34 degree heat. Ah well.